big tank leak

[BillT]

I noticed a bunch of water on the floor when I was feeding and discovered that my 105 G tank (glass) had a big split in a veritcal seam. It was bugled out 1/8" to 1/4" but was mostly still clogged with silicon.

I moved the fish and siphoned the tank.

Now I have to figure out what to do.

Its an old tank (maybe 20, thick glass) I got cheap when the Wet Spot, in Portland, was turning over some tanks.

[LizStreithorst]

Thank goodness you saw it and were able to save the fish.  Resiliconing a tank isn't hard.  With a tank that old, resilicone the entire tank, not just the seam where it leaked.

[Ron Sower]

Thank goodness you saw it and were able to save the fish.  Resiliconing a tank isn't hard.  With a tank that old, resilicone the entire tank, not just the seam where it leaked.

+1

[ghonk]

I thought you always  HAD to reseal the whole tank,stripping out all the old,because silicone doesn't  stick to silicone very well.And water might get in between and still leak after repair.     

[BallAquatics]

I thought you always  HAD to reseal the whole tank,stripping out all the old,because silicone doesn't  stick to silicone very well......

That's what I always do.  It's not really a big deal though.  Get some single edge razor blades and remove all the silicone from inside the tank.  You don't need to take the tank apart, just remove all the silicone from inside the tank.

At this point the silicone between the glass will still be holding the tank together.  Wipe all the joints inside with Acetone to get them perfectly clean just before applying the new silicone.  I like to use a caulking gun and apply the silicone to the vertical joints first and then go around the entire bottom before smoothing everything out with my finger.  On a big tank you need to keep things moving so the silicone doesn't start to "skin" before you get it all applied.  I let everything cure for 24 hours before adding water to the tank.

I get my acetone and silicone, (GE Silicone 1) from the local Lowes store.  You will likely find all kinds of recommendations for the proper silicone to use, but like UaruJoey on YouTube, I use the GE Silicone 1 with very good results.

Dennis

[Mugwump]

I used the 'Loctite' caulk on the 130....sealed real well....doesn't take much either....

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/6/22/cntct_silicone/overview/Loctite-Clear-Silicone-Waterproof-Sealant.htm

[LizStreithorst]

I had no idea that Locktite made a silicone sealant. I'll stick with my GE #1.

[Mugwump]

I had no idea that Locktite made a silicone sealant. I'll stick with my GE #1.

Oh I like my GE 1.....but given the tank size, and 'Loctite's' reputation ....I figured why not seal it, and secure it a bit better.....it's little pricey for the amount that you get in a tube, but worth it for the bonding properties.....

[LizStreithorst]

It IS a silicone, right?  I use the GE 1 because it does not contain fungicide like most silicones.

[Mugwump]

It IS a silicone, right?  I use the GE 1 because it does not contain fungicide like most silicones.

follow the link..it's completely aquarium safe....

[LizStreithorst]

It comes in a little bitty tube! I have big tanks.  Little bitty tubes are only worth the price if they're better than the stuff I can put in the caulk gun.  Where does is say how it bonds better than GE 1?. 

[Mugwump]

It comes in a little bitty tube! I have big tanks.  Little bitty tubes are only worth the price if they're better than the stuff I can put in the caulk gun.  Where does is say how it bonds better than GE 1?.

It's best to use what you feel comfortable with.........'Loctite products are know for their securing. and bonding of materials....that's what the name implies and what they first built the reputation on years ago.....

It states not recommended for tanks over 30 gallons, but I didn't break the tank down...I simply cleaned up the exposed caulk and re-sealed the bottom and corners....the tank didn't leak anyway..I did it to  be sure the exposed caulk wasn't dried out, or was ineffective, and I figured the additional bonding of the Loctite caulk was just a plus....as I didn't know how long it may have sat empty..........GE #1....actually isn't recommended/warrantied for aquariums at all, by GE......but works nicely, being 100% silicone....aquarium folks have used it for years....

[GraphicGr8s]

It comes in a little bitty tube! I have big tanks.  Little bitty tubes are only worth the price if they're better than the stuff I can put in the caulk gun.  Where does is say how it bonds better than GE 1?.

It's best to use what you feel comfortable with.........'Loctite products are know for their securing. and bonding of materials....that's what the name implies and what they first built the reputation on years ago.....

It states not recommended for tanks over 30 gallons, but I didn't break the tank down...I simply cleaned up the exposed caulk and re-sealed the bottom and corners....the tank didn't leak anyway..I did it to  be sure the exposed caulk wasn't dried out, or was ineffective, and I figured the additional bonding of the Loctite caulk was just a plus....as I didn't know how long it may have sat empty..........GE #1....actually isn't recommended/warrantied for aquariums at all, by GE......but works nicely, being 100% silicone....aquarium folks have used it for years....

Even some of the ones with mildewcide say 100% silicone. The main difference between GE1 and the RTV is shear strength. For building a large tank I sure would look for the right silicone. Not GE1. BTW I will be resealing a few of my 22 and 8 breeders with the GE1 when I get around to needing them.

[Bushkill]

Thank goodness you saw it and were able to save the fish.  Resiliconing a tank isn't hard.  With a tank that old, resilicone the entire tank, not just the seam where it leaked.

If the outter silicone bead (the thin one between the glass panels has separated, I would also advise a complete tear-down and re-build. It's not difficult, but if you've never done it, or worked with silicones, it can be a painful exercise. In terms of the time you'll invest as well as materials, you may want to at least consider just replacing anything at 55G or smaller. The Petco sale can replace a 55G for $55 where you'll spend $30 on silicone alone. As tanks get bigger, the glass gets thicker and the $ per gallon goes up exponentionally so tear-downs start to make more sense. Also, plan on springing for pizza a beer for the extra hands you'll need to set the panels up correctly once you're ready to re-assemble.

With bigger tanks I'd also recommend a silicone with a higher shear strength too. Momentive (used to be a GE product) adhesives (get it from Grainger) is what I would use on bigger tank tear-downs. I got into a long discussion over all of this some years ago with a Dow chemist who actually formulated and tested sealants, and learned a freakin' ton.

[LizStreithorst]

No way I would bother tearing down a 55.  Try just removing the old silicone and replacing it with new.  It will probably work. 

I broke down a 100 and rebuilt it once.  I was able to do it without help because I was able to get it apart without breaking the bottom trim.  I used the bottom trim and clamps to hold things in place while I worked.  This was about 12 years ago and the tank is still in use in my fish room.

I appreciate this discussion about sealants.  We don't have a Grainers down here but I can buy the Momentive on line.  There are 2.  They have INdustrial Silicone sealant and RTV silicone sealant.  Which is the one I should get?